Basic Rabbit CareThis is called "Basic Rabbit Care" because it only provides the essentials of rabbit ownership. Since every rabbit is different, please take all information in this care guide and incorporate it in anyway you see fit for your own rabbit's health. (Special thanks to Sandra, for giving me the idea to write this in the first place!)
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Diet
1. What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet? A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, unlimited fresh hay (timothy and/or oat is recommended), and water. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities. * While there are debates about adding veggies to an everyday diet, no matter what you choose to do, always remember that everything in moderation. 2. What makes a good pellet? Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber). Do not purchase pellets with colorful tidbits because the added sugary treats are not necessary and could be disadvantageous. Pellets should make up less of a rabbit's diet as he or she grows older. A good rule of thumb is 1oz (8 oz=1cup) pellets per 1 lb bunny. Hay should be available 24 hours a day. 3. Is Hay really that important to a rabbit's diet? Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. It is the best natural hairball remedy that you can provide for your rabbit. 4. What kinds of veggies can I feed my rabbit? Please see Recommended Veggie Lists for some helpful websites. 5. What are some poisonous plants? Please read Poisonous Plants for more information.
1. Can bunnies really be littertrained? YES! By nature, rabbits are very clean and tidy animals and usually choose one or a few places (usually corners) to use as their "restroom". Using this idea, rabbits can be easily littertrained. 2. Does age make a difference? Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it! 3. Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference? Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 3-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. Most of the time, by spaying or neutering your rabbit, s/he will be more likely to use the litterbox. 4. What types of litter should I use? There are many litters available for rabbit owners. The 2 biggest factors are price and odor absorbance when choosing the litter that's right for you and your rabbit. Various available types of litter: 1. clay litter is dusty--if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make him vulnerable to pneumonia the deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic. NOT RECOMMENDED 2. clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death. NOT RECOMMENDED 3. Many studies on pine and cedar shavings emit gases that can cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny but there are pros and cons about pine from many rabbit owners. To be on the safe side, I would recommended consistent cleaning if used. 4. corn cob litter isn't absorbent and doesn't control odor, and has the risk of being eaten and casing a lethal blockage. 5. oat- and alfalfa-based litters have excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating. 6. newspapers are cheap and absorbent, but don't control odors very well. 7. citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world 8. Many people have great success with litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. A litter called CAREfresh is available in many pet stores. A similar litter in a pelleted form is called Cellu-Dri 1-800-382-5001 for available retailers. Also there is Yesterday's News available in various pet stores. These litters are harmless if ingested. 9. Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product. 10. An economical and safe litter is the food pellets themselves. May not provide good odor absorbance though. ** For the welfare of your rabbit, please research the pros and cons of the litter you choose. 5. Is there a correct littertraining method? Here's the method that works for me: Start with providing your rabbit with a litterbox(es). Set it up in the corner of the cage. You will find that the rabbit will have his own thoughts on where his "bathroom" will be. If you notice that your rabbit does not use the litterbox in the corner you provided, instead of trying to train him to use the box, you could just move the litterbox to the corner he has already chosen. The first couple days may require several boxes before the rabbit has selected the "perfect spot". Watch and observe your rabbit. You will be able to tell that its "bathroom time" by the characteristic "tail lift". If your rabbit does this action in an undesignated corner, gently scoot him over to the right spot (where the litterbox is). Don't hurry the process. Do not scare your rabbit. Be patient. Reinforce good habits instead of getting mad. In time your rabbit and you will figure out what is expected. After the routine is established, do not change it. Rabbits tend to defecate and eat at the same time so many rabbit owners claim that putting hay in the rabbit's litterbox has helped them in speeding up the littertraining process.
1. Are wire floor cages bad for my rabbit?
If you use a cage with a wire floor, you can provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on. Wire cages are very sanitary if your bunny is NOT littertrained.
2. What size cage is best?
Bigger is better! A cage should be at least 3-4 times the size of your bunny-- even bigger if he will confined in his cage for a large amount of the day.
3. What are some other options besides cages?
There are many options for cages that are not expensive and are easy to build. Please read Neat Ideas Cube Cages for some helpful websites! Don't know where to buy NIC? Check out NIC retailers (scroll halfway down the page for the list). There are many design possibilities with using the NIC cage. GET CREATIVE!
** Also another option is a doggy pen. I would recommend the pen be 30-36 inches high so that the rabbit can't jump out and escape. 4. What is the greatest risk for rabbits housed outdoors? The greatest threat is attack by predators. These occur primarily at night, but can also happen occasionally in the daytime. Hutches and/or cages need to provide enough protection to make it safe to leave the rabbit outdoors 24 hours a day. Many raccoons can open hutches. Other predators include coyotes, owls, hawks, possums, feral cats and dogs can easily knock an unsturdy cage open.
1. Why is it important to provide toys?
Toys are important because they provide:
1. Mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you're not home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction (ie. Obesity). The creative use of toys can extend your rabbit's life by keeping him interested in his surroundings, by giving him the freedom to interact with those surroundings, and by allowing him to constantly learn and grow.
2. Physical exercise. Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as his mind. He needs things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture.
3. Bunny proofing for your home. Toys are not just for your rabbit, they also keep your house safe. By providing your rabbit with a selection of toys chosen to meet his age, sex, reproductive status and temperament, you will detract your rabbit from focusing his attention on your furniture, stray wires and walls.
2. What are some good bunny toys?
Please read 10 Cheap Bunny Toys
** also here are some great online rabbit stores that sell rabbit safe toys and products:
www.busybunny.com
1. Why spay and neuter rabbits?
1. Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.
2. Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.
3. Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
4. Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 15 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as many pet stores (not all) sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.
5. Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.
2. Is surgery safe on rabbits?
Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal. Please visit HRS Recommended Rabbit Vets to find a rabbit savvy vet near you.
1. Do rabbits shed?
Rabbits shed typically every 3 months. Some months will be lighter than others. Rabbits are fastidious groomers. They insist on being clean & tidy and will lick themselves like cats, and like cats, they can get hairballs if they ingest too much hair. Unlike cats however, rabbits cannot vomit. If hairballs are allowed to form they can become gigantic masses of tangled hair & food and will block the stomach exit, causing the rabbit to starve to death while his stomach appears to be very fat. For this very reason, unlimited hay is very important.
Rabbits should be brushed at least weekly especially the long haired breeds. In addition to removing any loose hair, this weekly brushing session will help strengthen the bond you have with your rabbit. Most rabbits will enjoy being pampered.
Bald spots on rabbits are quite common when they are shedding. But, short haired rabbits can do the same thing. If these bald spots occur from shedding, they will begin to grow back within a week or two. Do not confused shedding bald spots with balding from other sources (ie. Mites, ringworm etc)
2. Can rabbits have fleas?
Yes. Rabbits can obtain fleas from many different sources (ie. Other animals, infected grass, outside environment etc). Kitten (not cat) flea products are generally safe for rabbits with fleas. Advantage is a recommended flea brand name. There are also herbal remedies available (but please do research on these products before using). DO NOT USE FRONTLINE! Many vets and rabbit owners say that frontline causes seizures in rabbits. Frontline is marketed by Rhone Merieux Inc. and even they strongly recommend Frontline NOT be used on rabbits or other exotic species.
Another option is a flea comb. It is a non-toxic device, which takes more patience, but is both physically and psychologically rewarding. Most rabbits learn to love the attention of being flea combed, and it can be used as a supplement to or as your main flea-control program. If you want to control fleas in the environment with sprays or a flea bomb, do only one room at a time and keep your rabbits out of that room for at least 24 hours.
3. Do bunnies need regular baths?
No. Rabbits are very clean animals and will bath themselves. Most rabbits who not used to being bathed would find even an occasional bath quite stressful. Baths should only be administered under extreme conditions.
4. Can rabbits be declawed?
Rabbits who spend all of their time in homes with carpeting and linoleum, with no way to naturally reduce their toenails, periodically need to have their toenails trimmed, in the same way as dogs and cats. Toenails should be trimmed once a month. But because of risk of infection, declawing is definitely NOT recommended for rabbits.
If excessive digging or scratching is a problem, then a large box of hay or straw, where bunny can pursue these activities, may help. Also providing more distractions (ie toys) can be useful.
If the padding (fur) on the feet is worn down, exposing inflamed or callused skin, then soft dry resting pads (rugs) should be provided. Exposed skin that becomes urine burned or broken is very likely to infect. Take extra care that rugs and litterboxes are kept clean and dry.
5. Do rabbit teeth require any extra care?
Rabbits teeth grow continuously and must be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly.
Bunnies with straight teeth will keep them worn down with everyday gnawing and chewing. Buns with malocclusions, or crooked teeth, will need to have their teeth kept trimmed with guillotine-type clippers. If this occurs and is left untreated, the rabbit will not be able to eat and could starve to death. Your veterinarian can show you how to clip a rabbits teeth or they can clip them for you.
6. What is the normal healthy temperature for a bunny?
Ranges between 101oF - 103oF (38.3oC - 39.4o C)
1. What does rabbit proofing involve?
Rabbit Proofing one's home involves three things:
1) Preventing destruction of your property
2. Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?
Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach.
3. So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach?
1. Spiral cable wrap. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm. You wrap the electrical and phone cords in this spiral plastic sheath and the rabbits don't seem to want to chew them any more - perhaps because the wrap has the effect of thickening the cords so they no longer are bite-sized. They can be found at home improvement stores (ie. Home depot, lowes etc), computer/electronic stores (ie. Radio shack) and/or furniture stores (ie. Ikea etc).
2. Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available.
** Also a very easy method is tucked entirely behind furniture.
3. How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants?
Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture is one solution but it may not keep a rabbit away esp if the rabbit is free run. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves!
5. How do I protect baseboards and wooden furniture?
If a rabbit insists on chewing baseboards, edges of chairs, etc., a board can be put over the places of temptation, making them inaccessible while also providing an acceptable chewing surface. This method can be combined with training your rabbit not to chew on these items with chewing deterrents like Bitter Apple Spray (available at any pet store, usually in the dog aisle). Unfortunately, sometimes some bunnies actually enjoy the taste of it!
Another option is coating the area where your bunny is chewing by a light layer from a bar of soap. Since you probably know what it tastes like to eat soap, it should have the same affect on your bunny and deter him/her from chewing that area again. Liquid soap is NOT recommended.
6. How do I protect upholstered furniture and beds?
Upholstered furniture and beds are usually a rabbit's first destruction site. But unfortunately this is detrimental to the rabbit's digestive system if allowed to continue. A flat cardboard box or frame of 2x4s, smaller than the area of the future base, will keep the rabbit out from underneath the furniture. To keep the rabbit from chewing the top of the furniture, more acceptable chew items can be used (ie. flat cardboard, straw mats, old towel etc). Either way rabbits should be supervised when out of their cage. Another option is chewing deterrents.
1. Do rabbits like to be held?
Contrary to popular belief, the vast majority of rabbits don't like to be held and prefer to sit next to you to be petted. However there are times when you have to pick up your rabbit, for instance if he needs care. For this reason it's a good idea to practise lifting and setting him down every day.
2. What is the best way to hold my rabbit?
There are a couple various methods depending on what you and your rabbit are comfortable with.
Do you know the proper way to pick up a rabbit? Does the rabbit feel well supported? Rabbits usually scratch and kick when they feel insecure. They like to have their feet on the ground, often they feel as though they are in the clutches of a predator. They are on the lowest rungs of the food chain. Is your rabbit used to you, your presence, your smells? You need to give any rabbit a chance to know you and feel safe with you before doing something as drastic as SWEEPING her off her feet! Perhaps if you take it slowly, one step at a time and allow your rabbit to gain confidence in you things will soon enough fall into place. When you do pick up a rabbit you must do it gently but firmly and with conviction. It is imperative that you do it correctly so as to instill authority and confidence.
To pick up a large rabbit, put one hand under her chest and the other under her bottom, then lift the bunny facing away from you. Remember to act confidently or your rabbit will sense your hesitation. That hesitation will only make the rabbit uneasy. Rabbits can break their spine if they kick out suddenly, so hold the back legs firmly in your hand.
 To pick up a small rabbit, put one hand under her forelegs and one under her bottom and scoop towards you. Hold the bunny securely against your body to prevent her from kicking. For hard-to- hold bunnies --> The Burrito Method Some bunnies, depending on their bad past experiences with being held, will be extra squirmy and uneasy so a good method for a beginner is to wrap the bunny in a towel/blanket like a burrito before attempting to hold the bunny. The extra security of the blanket will help keep the bunny from trying to kick and squirm in your arms which will make him easier to handle.
 For easier control --> The football method: Grasp the rabbit by the scruff and at the same time cuff the ears. This will allow you more control over the rabbits movements. Scoop your other hand under the hindquarters and use this to support the rabbits weight. Practice makes perfect. You can then tuck the rabbits head under your armpit while still maintaining the control hand [Scruff and ears.] This is known as the football carry. If done correctly the rabbit will not want to and cannot kick and scratch.
 ** Picking up a rabbit by the scruff of the neck is a controversial method. Some do not recommend it because it may cause tissue damage and some rabbits are too heavy to be lifted in this way. While others say that picking up by the scruff and supporting the bum is acceptable. For the Advanced Bunny holder --> The Rock-A-Bye Baby Method: After you master the general ways to hold your bunny and your bunny has gained your trust, you'll be able to slowly move him away from your chest and tuck him into the crook of your arm like a baby. This is also a variation on trancing your bunny (to learn more about trancing, please read the "How to Trance your Bunny" section below).
(Rock-A-Bye Baby variation hold) Take care when setting a bunny down, as he may leap out of your arms in anticipation. The best method is to bend your legs so that you are closer to the ground and quickly release him. Many adults find it difficult to keep hold of a struggling bunny, so we don't recommend letting children pick up a rabbit for their own safety and that of the bunny too. 3. What is Trancing?
With practice, most rabbit owners can get their own bunnies to go in a trance. This can be extremely useful when : (1) Trimming Nails (2) Assessing your rabbit's health (3) Visiting your veterinarian (4) Bonding with your rabbit. There are two approaches -- some bunnies prefer lying flat perpendicular to the floor and others prefer to be on an angle (requiring you to bend your knees). Take it slowly. It is recommended that you do this on the floor to lesson the possibility of injury from a fall if your bunny jumps free of your hold. First, see how your bunny reacts to being placed on his/her back. This may take practice -- consider it a success if they stay still for only a few seconds before wiggling free. Practice this several times a day. Get your bunny used to being handled. Once they are still, try removing your hands from holding them. Again, this may only be for a few seconds in the beginning. Next, gently touch their paws so that they continue to relax and not tense up. Speak gently and slowly to reassure them. Stroke their heads and ears. Some owners place a small towel over their bunnies eyes so they remain calm if they get too agitated during their beginning "trance" sessions. You want your bunny to reach a level of total relaxation -- eyes normally close during this relaxation period.
1. What are some prerequisites for a successful bonding?
Before attempting an introduction, the rabbits should be spayed or neutered. It is recommended that you wait 2-4 weeks after the surgery before proceeding with any bonding. This delay both ensures proper healing and gives the hormones a chance to dissipate. This delay is especially important with a newly neutered male, as a male bunny can still be fertile for two weeks after fixing.
Many well-meaning rabbit caregivers who bring a new rabbit home, put him with their existing rabbit, and think all will be fine. Sadly, these hasty introductions often result in serious harm or injury from biting, chasing, or other forms of attack.
In addition, rabbits are not quick to forget, so a bad fight could hinder future bonding success. Taking the time, reading up, and waiting for two spayed or neutered rabbits to be introduced will ensure you the best possible chance at a loving, bonded relationship.
2. What are the possible types of introductions?
3. What are some scenerios I should expect?
4. How to set the "Bonding Stage"?
Rabbits are extremely territorial. In wild rabbits, territorial behavior includes depositing marking pellets at the boundaries of the territory, chinning, urinating, and aggressive behavior such as digging, circling, and fighting. Wild males tend to defend larger territories while females concentrate on their nests. In our neutered domestic companions, hormonal causes may be absent, but territorial behavior still exists. Thus, when introducing new rabbits, territory must be considered and used to your advantage.
What you are trying to do is eliminate the possibility for there to develop any territorial behavior in the rabbits. So you choose introductory spaces that are as different from your bunny's territory as possible. You are also trying to mimic positive feelings in your rabbits. By creating artificial situations where your bunnies are snuggling, rubbing noses, smelling each others' fur, etc., you are creating positive memories, even if they are also stressful. I call this "coerced closeness." They are positive in the sense that they don't associate the other bun with the stress (of the car ride, for example), they associate the other rabbit with the feelings of security that they receive. If they fight, then they will carry THOSE bad memories around with them, and will remember that they fought together.
Always introduce rabbits, regardless of sex or age, in neutral space first. (Obviously, if you're bringing home two bunnies together, then any space in your home is neutral space.) Possible neutral spaces might be: a room that your rabbit has never been in, a friend's home or apartment, the seat of a car, on top of the kitchen table, the garage, the bathtub, the back yard, etc.
** None of these suggestions will work by themselves, and none will work immediately. Patience is the key! Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day. Be consistent! Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme. Do one extreme and one less extreme every day. The more often you work with them, the quicker the progress. If possible try to arrange a large block of time (like a week's vacation) in an extremely neutral space (like a friend's or relative's house). If one rabbit is elderly or otherwise compromised, then go slowly to minimize the stress.
** Do not stop researching on your own. This is a very general outline for rabbit care. If you have some suggestions or additions on how to make this outline better, please email us! **
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